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Keeping your engine clean…

Car care tips…
Keeping your engine clean…

Tip #1
Use Heavy Duty Gel to cling to vertical surfaces. When degreasing areas under your car like differential covers or oil pans before you change out any of the functional fluids in your car.

Tip #3
Use any one of our Brake Parts Cleaners. Dissolve and flush away built up brake dust, caliper fluid, grease and oil from the parts you’re replacing to ensure a proper fit for your new brake parts.

Tip #2
Use Squeal Medic on your drums and rotors. Before you finish up your brake job to help stop any unwanted squeaks or squeals from starting while you brake in your new pads.

Tip #4
Use Bug-n-Tar remover in the summer months. When most insects get stuck to your grill, bumper and hood area to keep your painted surfaces and metals free from discoloration and corrosion problems caused by insects.

Changing Your Own Oil – Pennzoil – Consumer Auto Parts

Step-by-Step Oil Change Instructions

oil change

1. Park vehicle on level surface, engage parking brake and turn off engine. If necessary, raise front of vehicle by driving it onto a ramp or by jacking it up and supporting it with jack stands.


2. Open the hood.

3. Locate the engine oil dipstick and remove (helps the oil flow when draining).

oil change

4. Once the vehicle is safely and securely supported, put on safety glasses, crawl under the vehicle and locate the engine’s oil pan. (See owner’s manual for reference.)

5. Locate the oil drain plug, which is a long bolt head at the bottom of the pan. The drain plug allows the oil to drain out of the pan. (Note: Some vehicles have two drain plugs.)

6. Position a container, such as an approved oil catch pan, under the drain plug. Make sure the catch pan is large enough to hold the volume of oil expected to drain out of the engine. Check your owner’s manual for the volume of oil that you car requires.

oil change

7. Loosen the drain plug using a box-end wrench or 6-pt. socket. Carefully remove the plug by hand, making sure the catch pan is underneath the plug hole. Oil will flow rapidly from the hole, but allow several minutes for all old oil to drain out. (See vehicle owner’s manual for additional information.) CAUTION: OIL MAY BE HOT!

oil change

8. Wipe the oil pan threads and oil drain plug with a rag, and visually inspect the condition of the oil pan and oil drain plug threads and gasket. Buy a replacement drain plug if you have any concerns about the condition of the plug. Replace the drain plug gasket if needed (some OEMs recommend this). Once the oil is finished draining, reinstall the oil drain plug and tighten with the correct box-end wrench or 6-pt. socket to the manufacturer-specified torque. (See owner’s manual.)

oil change

9. Locate the oil filter. If the old and new oil filters are not the same, double-check the application to be sure you have the correct filter. (See vehicle’s owner’s manual for additional information.)

10. Position an oil catch pan under oil filter to catch any residual oil remaining inside filter.

oil change

11. Loosen the oil filter or oil filter cap with oil filter wrench, and allow the oil to drain from the oil filter.

12. Remove the oil filter. Check to make sure the filter gasket has come off with the filter. If it’s still clinging to the engine mounting plate, remove it and any remaining residue.

oil change

13. Place a light coating of new oil on the gasket of the new oil filter so it will install smoothly onto the engine. (Note: Do not use grease!) By hand, install the new oil filter onto the engine by turning in a clockwise direction. Once the oil filter gasket first contacts the mounting plate gasket surface, tighten the filter according to the directions for your application (usually found on the new oil filter or oil filter box), preferably by hand. Generally, this is three-quarters to one full turn after the filter gasket contacts the engine. (NOTE: Cartridge oil filter replacement procedures may differ. See owner’s or service manual for instructions.)

oil change

14. Under the hood, remove the oil fill cap and pour in the correct amount of Pennzoil® motor oil of the correct viscosity with a funnel. (See vehicle’s owner’s manual for recommended grade, specification and amount.)

15. Replace the oil fill cap.

oil change

16. Start the engine and run at idle for minimum of 30 seconds. Carefully inspect under the vehicle for oil leaks (especially by oil drain plug and oil filter). If leaks are visible, shut off the engine immediately and have the leaks repaired.


oil change

17. Shut off the engine and allow 30 seconds for oil to settle in the engine. Carefully inspect the area beneath the vehicle for oil leaks.

18. Safely lower the vehicle to level ground.

oil change

19. Install and remove oil dipstick and check for proper oil level, adding more oil if necessary. (See the vehicle’s owner’s manual for oil capacity and recommended oil level on dipstick.)

20. Repeat oil change with Pennzoil® motor oil as directed by manufacturer’s guidelines.

These instructions are intended as general guidelines. Please consult your owner’s or service manual for specific instructions on changing the oil and filter on your vehicle. Use extreme caution when lifting or jacking any vehicle.



Don’t look now, but you’re probably about to hit another pothole.

Drivers know immediately when they hit a pothole, but what they don’t know is if their vehicle has been damaged in the process. While tires and wheels can be visually checked, potholes can also cause considerable damage to the steering, suspension and alignment systems that you just can’t see.

Motorists will spend nearly $5 billion on car repairs from damage caused by potholes, according to a recent report by WJLA-TV in Washington D.C. The U.S. PIRG Education Fund and the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) estimate that poor road conditions cost the average motorist around $335 a year.

If you hit a pothole while driving, the Car Care Council recommends that you watch for the following warning signs and have your vehicle inspected by a professional technician without delay.

  • Loss of control, swaying when making routine turns, bottoming out on city streets or bouncing excessively on rough roads. These are indicators that the steering and suspension may have been damaged. The steering and suspension are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling. Key components are shocks and/or struts, the steering knuckle, ball joints, the steering rack/box, bearings, seals and hub units and tie rod ends.
  • Pulling in one direction, instead of maintaining a straight path, and uneven tire wear. These symptoms mean there’s an alignment problem. Proper wheel alignment is important for the lifespan of tires and helps ensure safe handling.
  • Low tire pressure, bulges or blisters on the sidewalls, or dents in the rim. These problems will be visible and should be checked out as soon as possible as tires are the critical connection between your car and the road in all sorts of driving conditions.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit

Consumer Auto Parts

Consumer Auto Parts

Meguiar’s Holiday Gift Kits: Car care packages for the automotive enthusiast

Meguiar’s Holiday Gift Kits: Car care packages for the automotive enthusiast in your life

Car care packages for the automotive enthusiast in your life

Meguiar Clean Shine Holiday Gift Kit 01
Michael Johnson
Technical Editor
November 23, 2016

Just in time for the holiday season, Meguiar’s releases car care packages designed to keep your or your significant other’s Mustang looking good. This line of car care packages has everything you need to take care of your Mustang’s exterior and interior. So when you have exhausted your list of Christmas presents for yourself or your favorite Mustang enthusiast, here are a few ideas to make sure you have everything on their list.

Meguiar’s Clean & Shine Car Cleaning Kit includes the company’s Deep Car Wash, Gold Class Quik Wax, Quik Interior Detailer, and Perfect Clarity Glass Cleaner. Sold exclusively through Kmart and Sears stores, the Clean & Shine Car Cleaning Kit is the least expensive of the three we’ll list here. At just $15, it’s the perfect gift for someone you only like a little.

Regardless of the car care kit you choose, Meguiar’s has the products you need in order to keep your Mustang clean. We present three just in time to put under the tree for your favorite Mustang enthusiast.




Check Tires

Damaged tires are no match for sleek, slippery roads. Get tires winter-ready by examining for thin or uneven tread wear, which reduces traction and can be very dangerous in winter weather. Cut or damaged sidewalls are also weak areas that can collapse under severe weather conditions. Remember to check the air pressure before and during winter months to ensure the best traction and mileage.


Once your tires are in good shape, apply tire cleaner and coating such as Turtle Wax® Jet Black™ Endura-Shine Tire Coat to help repel winter elements for months!


Wax On, Winter Off

Winter weather can dull your car’s paint and shine, making it susceptible to rust and oxidation. To keep your vehicle clean and protected all winter long make sure to thoroughly wax your car before the cold weather hits. For best results, wash your car with a product like Turtle Wax® ICE ® Wash and follow with Turtle Wax® ICE® Liquid or Paste Wax to protect your vehicles surface from road salt and snow.  Concentrate on the lower parts of your car such as behind the wheels, quarter panels, and front grille where ice, snow and salt hit hard and stay the longest.


Check Fluids

Maintaining proper fluid levels is critical to keeping your car working properly during the winter. A common mistake is forgetting to replace or top-off summer windshield wiper fluid with a winter blend that will not freeze when the temperature drops.


Check your antifreeze and oil levels to prevent internal damage to your car, and keep your gas tank at least halfway full to help prevent gas line freeze. Winter prep should also include an oil change.


Make sure you’re not stranded in the cold with a car that won’t start.  Use Marvel Mystery Oil® as an engine and fuel additive to promote better cold weather starting.


Care for Your Interior

Winter elements can also cause damage to the inside of your car.  When tracked-in mud, slush and snow enter your car, prevent it from staining your interior and keep your floor mats clean, use Turtle Wax® Quick & Easy ™ Interior 1 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner.


Also, be sure to remove any water-based products in containers that can freeze and crack, as well as any unnecessary items that can weigh down your car and lower fuel efficiency.


Always Be Prepared

Winter can be unpredictable; so don’t wait for the first snow to fall to put the ice scraper and snow shovel in the car. Keep an emergency winter kit in the trunk in case of an accident or other bad weather situation. Recommended emergency items include a small first aid kit, flashlight, blanket, gloves, shovel, and road flares.


© Turtle Wax, Inc 2014

Fall car care checklist

By Tom Morr,

Just as you should check your smoke detectors’ batteries every time autumn comes around, preventive car maintenance procedures can keep automotive disaster from striking. Depending on where you live, the weather can change overnight – for instance, Colorado often gets snow as early as Labor Day. So applying the Boy Scout motto to colder-weather motoring can make the difference between getting there and back – or not.

Car traveling down a road in fall with changing leaves

Fall car care checklist

Fall car maintenance

Year-round routine car maintenance is the best way to make your vehicle perform stronger and last longer. The regimen should include car tune-ups and inspection/replacement of worn belts and hoses. As the weather cools, consider changing to synthetic lubricants, which work across a wider temperature range than conventional oils. These high-tech oils cost more, so an alternative is to use lighter-weight oils in colder weather.

Cooling system

Consult your owner’s manual for proper coolant mix, which is often about a 60/40 antifreeze-to-water ratio. Another trick is to install a higher-temperature thermostat. This will improve heater performance and help the engine warm up faster. However, some computer-controlled vehicles might not be compatible with non-factory temperature thermostats.


Since the car heater and defroster work off the cooling system, check heater hoses while inspecting the radiator hoses. Coolant on the floorboard is one common sign of a leaky heater core. Also, vacuum/blow all leaves and debris out of the ducts.


If your battery has removable caps, make sure that all cells are filled with distilled water. Keep all battery terminals and cable ends clean. When jump-starting, never connect the jumper cables’ ground clamp to the dead battery’s negative post. Instead, use an engine-mounted bracket as the grounding location. In colder weather, this can keep a frozen battery from exploding.

Fuel system

Keep the gas tank as full as possible. Aside from the obvious, this limits condensation in the gas tank to minimize water – which can freeze – in the fuel line. “Antigel” additives are available, particularly for diesel-powered vehicles. On non-fuel-injected cars, keep the choke/carburetor butterfly lubricated so it won’t stick.


Check the wiper blades for deterioration and consider upgrading to winter/snow blades. Park the blades before turning off the vehicle or lift them off the glass so they won’t freeze overnight. Fill the washer fluid reservoir with winter fluid, and never put hot water on a cold windshield.


Waxing, particularly with a carnauba-based product, will help the paint withstand road salt and other foul-weather grime. Lubricate door hinges with silicone spray so they won’t squeak when the weather changes. Spraying the locks and weatherstripping will help keep doors and trunks from freezing shut.


Air condenses in cooler weather, and we’re all well-educated now on the hazards of underinflated tires. Keep tires inflated to the manufacturer’s recommendation on the sticker found in the glove box or on the doorjamb. Check the condition/inflation of the spare. Store snow tires horizontally during the off-season to prevent flat-spotting. Practice fitting snow chains before the start of winter.

Auto care products

Lastly, the automotive aftermarket unveils an array of cold-weather solutions every autumn. These products are designed to heat almost every aspect of your vehicle: from its coolant to its oil, from its battery to it locks and even its occupants. Always plan ahead to minimize the stress of cold-weather driving.

Tips for driving in the summer heat


Consumer Reports News: July 07, 2010 12:37 PM
  summer driving

It’s hot outside, but even hotter inside a car. On a 90-degree day, the temperature inside a vehicle can quickly rise another 20 degrees in just the first 10 minutes. We all know the deadly consequences of leaving children or pets in a hot car. But in everyday driving, just getting in your car after it’s been parked in the sun for a while can be uncomfortable and has the potential to cause burns. Here are some tips on how to prepare for driving in the summer heat.

When parking, reducing the amount of sunlight coming in through the windows can minimize heat buildup inside the cabin:

  • Park in the shade if possible.
  • If you need to park in sunlight and you have a sunroof, close the shade.
  • Put a sunshade in the windshield and another over the rear seat window, especially if you’ll be carrying children in car seats. Folding-type shades are easy to store while driving.
  • If you’re parking in a secure area and there won’t be any rain, lower each window an inch or two. If you have a sunroof, you can leave it in the tilt position to provide extra ventilation.

When getting into your car, be careful not to burn yourself on hot surfaces:

  • Open the windows for the first few minutes to let buildup heat escape.
  • Bring a towel to sit on if you’re wearing shorts and have leather or vinyl seats.
  • Be careful when buckling up to not touch the metal part of the seatbelt as you can burn yourself.
  • Keep a light pair of gloves in the car if you find the steering wheel too hot to handle.

Driving in hot weather presents unique challenges for passengers and pets:

  • If carrying children or pets in the backseat, bring plenty of water and snacks, and plan to stop more often to tend to them.
  • Remember that the rear seat and cargo areas in SUVs, wagons, and minivans can be considerably warmer than the front-seat area. If you’re carrying passengers back there, and there are no backseat temperature controls, adjust the front a/c vents so they direct air to the rear.
  • If you’re headed to the store, bring a cooler bag to keep frozen items from melting or defrosting before you get home.
  • Keep in mind that high temperatures can mean power outages, which means that any gas stations that are affected could be out of service. Filling up in the morning will help you be ready for the unexpected.

For more advice on summer road travel, see our guide.

Liza Barth

Best Car Waxes – The 9 wax showdown! FINAL REVIEW!!!


Best Car Waxes – The 9 wax showdown! FINAL REVIEW!!!

Ease of Application

Best Car Waxes – The 9 wax showdown! FINAL REVIEW!!!

Best Car Waxes – The 9 wax showdown

Ease of application basically consists of how smooth the wax lays on the paint, how easy it is to spread evenly and thinly, how easy it is to get the applicator inside the tub, and all that fun jaz. Just simply read the first review on my thoughts on all the waxes in general, but here I am going to put a point system to them as some have requested, though personally, I think that the first review will give you a better insight than just numbers. Also note that there are both pastes and liquids here, so while I am grading on one scale, some things like Liquid Glass’s runny nature took away from its score along with ICE’s oversize applicator with undersized tub, while likewise Gold Class and Souveran were incredibly easy waxes to work with with everything nicely sized and everything just done right. Collnite’s finicky nature also took away from its score, along with both the Turtle Waxes, but remember that I also still do stand strong that once you get the technique down, it really is much easier, so keep that in mind.

(5) Meguiar’s Gold Class
(4) Meguiar’s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax
(5) Meguiar’s NXT 2.0
(1) Turtle Wax ICE Polish Paste
(5) Pinnacle Souveran
(3) Collnite #476 Super DoubleCoat
(3) Liquid Glass Auto Polish/Finish
(2) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell
(4) Eagle One NanoWax® Paste

Ease of Removal
This did not only take into consideration of how easily the product wiped away, but also how it did with drying time. Collnite was going to be the hardest to rate in ease of use, because while it is super easy to remove with a good drying time, it can be impossible if not applied properly, which is why I have seperated the two catagories. I had to rate the Meguiar’s waxes down half a point, because while they were unbelievably easy to remove, they do require a drying time, while Souveran does not, making it the clear winner. Otherwise, all went well! The Turtle Wax Hard Shell was as my first review said, a royal pain in the you know what to remove simply due to the thing not wanting to dry! Removal was very streaky as well, which ICE also seemed to share a bit of the same problem. Nanowax was still easy to remove, but did require extra drying time, hence the knock down in the score.

(4.5) Meguiar’s Gold Class
(4.5) Meguiar’s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax
(4.5) Meguiar’s NXT 2.0
(3.5) Turtle Wax ICE Polish Paste
(5) Pinnacle Souveran
(4) Collnite #476 Super DoubleCoat
(3) Liquid Glass Auto Polish/Finish
(1) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell
(4) Eagle One NanoWax® Paste

Clean hood with cured wax – Water Beading:
This was without a doubt, my hardest test believe it or not, because they were all so simular in their beading, I spent well over half an hour looking at water beads trying to find out which one beaded better than the other, and while in my initial testing I had made a few observations in the video, after spending a lot of time off camera, I realized much of that was probably due to the sprayer itself and the curves of the hood. As much as I hate to do this, on a scale of 1-5, all of them deserve a rock solid 5.

Clean hood with cured wax – Sheeting:
This is where it got REAL interesting and where the differences in the waxes became apparent! After I took the video, again I spent a long time with many gallons of water dripping on my boots from the hood on trying to observe the difference. This was, without a doubt, the easiest one to grade and the most fun! What I have to stress here is that they all do, without a doubt, sheet water, and none of them do a bad job at all! However, there are a few, namely Eagle One NanoWax and NXT that just blew me away, with NanoWax being the big surprise! The water literally just fell right off the paint with this wax and I was just blown away that I had never heard of anyone who made raved about this product because it really is good stuff, especially for the price! ICE also gave me a bit of a surprise because this stuff seriously does sheet water as well. I made a scale down below to give you guys an idea on how I thought they compared.

(3) Meguiar’s Gold Class
(4) Meguiar’s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax
(4.5) Meguiar’s NXT 2.0
(4) Turtle Wax ICE Polish Paste
(4) Pinnacle Souveran
(3) Collnite #476 Super DoubleCoat
(3) Liquid Glass Auto Polish/Finish
(3.5) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell
(5) Eagle One NanoWax® Paste

Water Spot protection
I was very disapointed with this test, and the reason is that all the waxes seemed to have failed miserably. Every single one has completely lost all of its shine, and trust me on this one, because I spent a good 45 minutes with 1000watt halogen lamps looking at every possible angle. No one wax wiped off easier than the other, and here is the difference that the wipe off made (note that the tape took some off when I tape off an area).


car wax

car wax

This was done with a clean microfiber and ONR quick detailer mix for the reason that I have found ONR to leave behind the least, if any shine agents that would change the results of the test. Now note that while it does look clean of water spots, this is what the paint actually looked like:


car wax

car wax

Another oddity that I noted was that Liquid Glass seemed to fog up for some reason. I tried to capture this with the camera, and I think you can see the difference here with some fogging in a small area. You will notice it right where my hair is in the picture, that cresent shape that looks like it could be glare is actually a fog:


car wax

car wax

I tried to debunk this with putting the light against it to see if it is due to the cold, or due to the heat of the light, and it seems as though it is due to the cold, though I still can’t be sure. This again just stresses my thoughts on Liquid Glass not being a good winter wax.

So, unfortuneatly, none of them were scorable in the protection ability as they all performed the same, so I thought I would try some beading to see how they acted, and this is where some of you may be in for a bit of a surprise, I know I am!


car wax

car wax


car wax

car wax

I’m not sure if I caputred it on camera very well, but they all seem to be beading very, very differently. Liquid Glass and NXT don’t seem to be fully beading up at all anymore! Compare them to the beading in the video, and I believe you will draw the same conclusion. What also leads me to believe this is that they are not showing a tape line anymore, while Turtle Waxes ARE, especially ICE paste! All the other waxes were showing the tape lines which shows simply that they do infact have a higher surface tension over the unwaxed paint, which would lead me to believe wax is present.

I then went onto trying to sheet water on this, and it again left me with a very hard test. All the waxes dropped down a lot in points here, but surprisingly, some do a bit better than I thought:

(2) Meguiar’s Gold Class
(3) Meguiar’s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax
(1.5) Meguiar’s NXT 2.0 *****
(3) Turtle Wax ICE Polish Paste
(2.5) Pinnacle Souveran
(2) Collnite #476 Super DoubleCoat
(1) Liquid Glass Auto Polish/Finish
(3) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell
(3.5) Eagle One NanoWax® Paste

*****I also HAVE to note to everyone that I could be wrong on NXT not beading up in this test, but I can assure you I studies it long and hard and while it may be beading up, it is not doing it NEARLY to the extent of the others, which is maybe where Ultimate Quick Detailer is suppose to come into play, but I personally wouldn’t take that beading over the others in any situation given a choice![/i]

I didn’t bother taking a video because of all the headache I am having with my computer, and considering it officailly takes 4+ hours to get a video on youtube for me, I will probably just upload the sheeting one since that is the impressive one, once I get that whole thing figured out with getting it off the camera!

Final Thoughts
Well, I can honestly say that I have learned a WHOLE lot from this little test, probably the most important thing being just how important it is to prep the surface prior to waxing with a REAL good clay job to where not even the plastic baggy can pick something up, and polishing the paint to absolute perfection. I also learned just how little importance a wax actually plays in this game, because after this test, I am convinced on just how little time you have to remove whatever is on your paint, and just how thin of a layer of protection these waxes offer, even with some of the best in this test like Collnite and NXT.

As all of you probably have done by now, adding up the points gives a final score of this:
(17.5) Meguiar’s Gold Class
(19.5) Meguiar’s #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax
(20.5) Meguiar’s NXT 2.0
(12.5) Turtle Wax ICE Polish Paste ******
(20.5) Pinnacle Souveran
(14) Collnite #476 Super DoubleCoat
(13) Liquid Glass Auto Polish/Finish
(10.5) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell
(19.5) Eagle One NanoWax® Paste

What I want to note on ICE is that let’s say that it might not of marred the surface if application was easier (again, still up in the air or not if it is a bad batch) and which in turn made removal easier, it could of had the chance to score a 21, which would put it as the winner, but that is all dealing with if and buts, and the point of me saying this is that the scores really don’t matter, it is just something there for fun. So, as you can see Meguiar’s NXT 2.0 and Souveran scored 20.5 which puts them in a tie for first place while Eagle One NanoWax and Meguiar’s #26 scored a 19.5 for a tie in second, and third left up to a solid 17.5 from Meguiar’s Gold Class. So don’t go out and buy simply based on the scores, READ what I wrote, and see which one seems like you would enjoy using the most!

I have to say in all this, Souveran was a bit of a letdown for me, and Eagle One NanoWax was a HUGE surprise! NXT also, obviously is just a solid, all arounder wax. So the question is probably in everyone’s mind, “So what wax are you going to use on your car!?” and for my situation, my car is one that is driven every single day, get’s a lot of abuse from the weather, and I plan to want to wax about every month at the most. Overall, I am leaning towards Eagle One NanoWax or Meguiar’s #26. NXT would probably be my top choice, however I do have the dilema with it falling apart after that water spotting abuse test on how it would hold up against other containments and if it would just fall on its face again. Durability also comes into play here, and as many know, Collnite lasts a good, long time, and I am sure with a little practice, it wouldn’t be a bad product to work with. I have heard horror stories about ICE’s durability, so I can’t say much on that. So I guess my answer to which one is:

The test must go on!. I am going to strip them all with a paint cleaer, re-apply, and test for durability, but this time take care of the paint and make sure to avoid water spots at all costs! For all those who don’t believe me on the NXT looks vs Souveran, I might also do a side by side of those two for everyone to see! It is now past midnight, and I have to wake up at 7am, so gnight everyone! I hope you learned from this as much as I have!
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Liquid Glass Customer Testimonials

Liquid Glass Customer Testimonials

available at Consumer Auto Parts


Liquid Glass is rated 5-Stars in over 350 customer testimonials
and product reviews submitted online at Amazon and Epinions.

I have been using Liquid Glass for over 20 years now, and have never been disappointed with the result.

“Over the past 40 years, I have used well over 100 different car wax and polish products. At one time I had an entire rack of bottles and cans of car wax in my garage. I tried every new product that came out from every manufacturer I could find. And then I tried Liquid Glass. Incredibly easy to put on and take off, leaves a stunning shine, and lasts longer than any product I have ever used. It will even remove stubborn bugs and tar as you put it on. I have been using Liquid Glass for over 20 years now, and have never been disappointed with the result.”– David E. Lusk Traphill, NC

What a wonderful product. Buy it, you won’t be disappointed.

“I have tried just about every auto polish ever marketed over the last 50 years, and never have I been more impressed with this product that is easy to apply, easy to wipe off and leaves an incredable shine that actually looks and feels like glass. What a wonderful product. Buy it, you won’t be disappointed.”– Michael B. Moore, Medford, OR

Each successive coat adds another layer that looks and protects even better.

“I’ve been using Liquid Glass for 10 to 15 years and have never been disappointed. I recently bought a Hyundai Sonata with the deep black finish. As an experiment, I just put Liquid Glass on the hood and drive it through the automatic car wash. The difference is truly remarkable! The hood just stands out and dried without a spot. This stuff not only looks better but last significantly longer; the real beauty is the coats are cumulative. Each successive coat adds another layer that looks and protects even better. You won’t be disappointed!”– Charles R. Spong, West Des Moines, IA

It’s the best protection for my car’s finish that I could buy.

“I started using Liquid Glass back in 1986. At the time it had a great reputation, both for it’s quality and it’s price. It took a lot of faith to pass over the $2 Turtle Wax for the $16 Liquid Glass, but it was well worth it. I have used it ever since. It goes on very easily, and buffs off without much effort. You can use it on your car’s finish and on the glass. Ever wonder if your car wax will turn yellow with age? Well, Liquid Glass doesn’t, and you can check that by applying it to your windows. Liquid Glass lasts longer on your windshield than Rain-X does as well. There have been a lot of fad waxes and polishes to come along in the last 23 years, each with a promise of a better shine or better protection than Liquid Glass. They are all fine products, but I have never had any reason to switch. I have used Liquid Glass on my last four cars, plus several family members cars and it always performs excellently. It’s the best protection for my car’s finish that I could buy.”– Dudley S. Marshall, Trussville, AL

This stuff is awesome!

“Like others, I have tried a variety of waxes and polishes with mixed results. Upon the recommendation of a friend, I tried Liquid Glass many years ago and I haven’t bought anything else since that time. Put simply, it works! It goes on easily, comes off even easier with a microfiber cloth and lasts longer than any wax that you can buy. This week, I washed my black Ford Fusion, removed the surface grit with a clay bar and applied Liquid Glass with an orbital polisher. I have repeated the last step an additional three times over the past three days and the car just glows. Last year, I applied multiple layers of LG and the shine lasted late into the spring. Unlike wax, the product will bond to the paint and water will bead up for up to a year. I like to apply multiple coats for additional protection and I also apply it to the glass on the vehicle. This stuff is awesome! You won’t find a better product for your vehicle and you will be amazed at how great your vehicle will look and how easily it goes on and comes off.”– Daniel F. Moore, Yarmouth, ME